Sunday, March 17, 2019

In the Market Report by Marilyn Kirschner

March Madness

I'm mad for the timeless elegance of Roger Vivier's Metal Buckle Pumps, $875

There are many things that make me mad: cruelty, discrimination of any kind, terrorism, violence, social injustice. The recent college admissions scandal. Oh, and people who are on a checkout line and wait until the very last minute to start fumbling with their credit cards, or worse; they insist on paying with every single penny they have in their wallet.

In terms of fashion, one pet peeve I have is the way, when one trend emerges; it seems to obliterate all that came before, rather than being thought of as another suggestion, another option that might work depending on time, place, occasion, etc. Why does one have to negate another? There’s room for everything as long as it’s good.

Sure, the focus for fall 2019 has been on couture like tailoring, haberdashery and words like dressing up and glamorous have been used ad nauseum. But it’s madness to think that athleisure, athletic wear, and streetwear are completely dead and that if you wear sneakers (heaven forbid) you will risk being arrested by the style police. Yes, it’s been overdone and has reached a saturation point, and the all-important sense of what is appropriate has been thrown out the window. But isn’t that always the case when anything in fashion reaches such heights of inundation?  The bottom line is there is a time and place for everything. It’s more about how it’s worn and when it’s worn than anything else.

Another thing that makes me mad is the over emphasis on trends, and women who blindly follow them as if they are the ‘Holy Grail’. They’re not. Retailers have to hawk clothes and fashion editors need catchy cover lines. Sure it’s good to know what’s going on and helpful to keep abreast of fashion, but it’s not about dressing ‘on trend’ but about finding those things that work for you; integrating new pieces into your existing wardrobe to create a desired look, regardless of whether they make the ‘hit’ list or not. Quite frankly, when something is ‘on trend’ that is probably the best time to ignore it!

Diana Vreeland 

I don’t understand why so many women want to look like everyone else instead of standing out and developing their own original style. It is so much more appealing and interesting than clicking off the boxes of what is deemed ‘on trend’. The late doyenne of fashion Diana Vreeland once noted, “Style - all who have it share one thing; originality”

Diana Vreeland was a true original who personifies a sophisticated, elegant, grown up chic that is cross generational and predicated on timeless wardrobe basics. It’s one that I’m especially mad about and as it turns out, it has also emerged as one of the stronger themes this season as exemplified by Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga.  Mrs. Vreeland could have easily been a muse.

The fashion icon was not a conventionally beautiful woman but she had a magnetic powerful beauty, an authoritative, distinctive style, and an amazing presence that exuded confidence. She always gravitated to classic sweaters, shirts, skirts, trousers. It was a uniform, meticulously put together, and accessorized with her signature jewelry: the Verdura cuffs and KJL ivory tusk necklace. Her shoes were elegant and obsessively kept in tip top shape.

There is no shoe label more synonymous with elegance and the unfailingly Parisian chic that has been one of the hallmarks of this season, than Roger Vivier. Considered to be the “Fragonard of the shoe”, Roger Henri Vivier, who passed away in 1998 at the age of 95 is credited with designing the first stiletto heel in 1954. He opened his first boutique in Paris in 1937, and created his first custom shoes for the French actress Mistinguett and Josephine Baker, Brigitte Bardot and Queen Elizabeth 11. And those famously worn by Catherine Deneuve in the 1967 film Belle du Jour.

Roger Vivier Fall 2019

His designs have since gained icon status, immediately recognizable by the square buckle. Roger Vivier is now under the creative direction of Gherardo Felloni, who adds a modern twist and just the right amount of contemporary cool to the label’s timeless styles. Today, each shoe and accessory epitomizes the effortless elegance of Inès de la Fressange, the brand’s ambassador. You can’t get chicer or more elegant than Ines as far as I’m concerned (the way she makes everything look easy and effortless is right on the money).

Roger Vivier Fall 2019

Gherardo held a presentation of his eclectic fall 2019 collection (a colorful and often sparkly assortment of handbags, pumps, ballerinas, boots, sandals, sneakers in a variety of luxurious materials) during recent Paris Fashion Week. Everything was based on his interpretation of a woman’s dreams, and "as we all know, dreams can sometimes turn into nightmares”, said Felloni who used a Parisian mansion as a venue and themed each room on a dream.

Catherine Deneuve lookalikes sporting blond wigs
wearing Roger Vivier Tres Vivier pumps

In one room, he recreated a cinema with several Catherine Deneuve lookalikes in identical blond wigs sporting the Tres Vivier pumps from the iconic French film Belle de Jour. They watched a trailer for the film starring the legendary actress which debuted in December to promote the new Beau Vivier bag.

The fall collection won’t be available for several months but there are plenty of other great styles that I’m mad for, which are available now.

Roger Vivier Metal Buckle Pumps

Inspired by the iconic model from the 60's, the Tres Vivier Metal Buckle pump in red patent leather maintains the same characteristics as the original model from the 60's but is updated with a larger buckle and a more sculptural heel, $925. More info/purchase

 Roger Vivier Tres Vivier Metal Buckle pumpsin leopard

The leopard printed Tres Vivier Metal Buckle pumps are on a 1.8 inch heel, $875. More info/purchase

Roger VivierTres Strass Vivier Velvet Boots

The Tres Vivier Strass Ankle Boots in black velvet with a shiny rhinestone buckle and structured low heel pay homage to the geometric silhouette from the 60’s, $1950.More info/purchase

Roger Vivier Embellished Satin Sandals

Roger Vivier Embellished Satin Sandals in a rich jewel-toned green satin are accented with the brand's signature style strass buckles on the vamp, which are adorned with faux pearl and crystal accents, $1325. More info/purchase

Roger Vivier I Love Vivier Pumps

The I Love Vivier pumps, are aptly named thanks to their heart-shaped toe vamp. Made in Italy from lustrous black satin, they stand tall on a curved, 3.35 inch heel that has a glossy finish and are the perfect black pump! $695. Make info/purchase

 Roger Vivier Sneaky Viv' Satin Sneakers

The Roger Vivier Sneaky Viv’ Tres Vivier Strass Buckle Drape sneakers in silk satin feature the iconic Swarovski crystal-encrusted buckle, side bow and rubber outsole, $1325.
More info/purchase

They are perfect for those who want the comfort of a sneaker, but prefer it to be more dressed up and more luxurious.

- Marilyn Kirschner

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