Wednesday, March 01, 2017

In the Market Report by Marilyn Kirschner

Anthony's ‘Crystal’ Meth

Saint Laurent
All photos Vogue.com

Anthony Vaccarello was obviously just getting started in his freshman outing for Saint Laurent last season and it was apparently just a warm up for what he presented for Fall/Winter 2017 on Tuesday. Unapologetically slick, strong, and quite out there, it rocked (yes, there was a hard to miss rock n roll vibe throughout, down to the blaring soundtrack).


It was a perfect combination of Anthony and Yves with its razor sharp tailoring and strong squared off shoulders, leather (often sculpted) and gleaming patent leather. It was body conscious and leggy with thigh grazing skirts, tall pointy toed boots (scrunched up a la 80’s), and skin tight jeans. When he showed trousers, they were lean and narrow (let others show roomy oversized menswear versions) and when he used something oversized on top, it was counterbalanced with something very short or tight on the bottom. It was fierce, down to his use of flowers and ruffles!


There was a good deal of daywear: shearling (and shearling sleeves), denim, trucker jackets and jean jackets (sometimes redone in fur), but the collection was really all about the nighttime and it was after dark that it shined, literally. I assume they handed out sunglasses to the show attendees to keep the glare out.


Relying on a palette of noir (very French and very YSL), in many cases Anthony lit up the night through the prominent use of crystals. They decorated or completely covered some of his thigh grazing body hugging dresses and button down shirts; appeared on his ruffles; trimmed the lapels of a le smoking, and was added to the shoulders of a black sequined dress. He even used them to fashion a few of his sweaters (including a classic fisherman knit) and boots.

Melania Trump in Michael Kors Collection

Coincidentally, on Tuesday evening, just hours after the Saint Laurent presentation, when President Trump delivered his first address to Congress, First Lady Melania Trump lit things up with a strong shouldered, fiercely tailored skirt suit covered in sequins (it could have easily been Saint Laurent but alas, it was by an American designer: Michael Kors to be exact). And the sequins were black rather than crystal but they nonetheless did the trick. Whether or not one thought it was appropriate is another story. I personally thought she looked great.

Here are a few ways you can incorporate a little bit of crystal (a little goes a long way) into your wardrobe right now, whether for day or for evening (quite frankly, I love it for daytime when paired offhandedly with denim).

Chanel baguette crystal brooch, $950


more info/purchase


Roger Vivier denim crystal embellished espadrilles, $725


more info/purchase


Roger Vivier Viv patent leather slip on sneakers with crystal buckle, $1325



more info/purchase


Roger Vivier pilgrim crystal buckle navy belt, $1050



more info/purchase


Michael Michael Kors Leslie crystal embellished short rain boot, $90


more info/purchase


Fallon Toria black velvet crystal-buckle choker necklace, $225



more info/purchase





- Marilyn Kirschner

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