Friday, February 26, 2016

Special In the Market Report

Best (and Worst) In Show Awards

The long drawn out awards season is finally coming to an end on Sunday, with the Academy Awards. So, as I looked back at what transpired both on and off the runways during New York Fashion Week, I thought I’d give out my own awards. Click images for full size views.

And the Winner is:

The collection that best exemplified “Glam Goth”: Rodarte 


And the Winner is: The best stage setting (it’s a tie): 

Thom Browne’s evocation of Washington Square Park at the turn of the century (his show was held at Skylight Modern Studios) 

And...

Tommy Hilfiger’s replication of his own cruise line (the T.H. Atlantic). His show was held at the Park Avenue Armory where the ceiling was made to resemble a star filled sky at nightfall. The setting was so good it upstaged the clothes being presented.


And the Winner is:

The collection that was the most fantastical and architectural and made the best use of unexpectedly delicious color combinations, and couture like embellishments: Delpozo by Joseph Font.


And the Winner is:

The most effective way to warm up ripped jeans in subzero weather: Layer them over thick black tights a la Susie Lau.


And the Winner is:

The most clever (and least suggestive) way to wear your bra on the outside (and make it look believable in the winter): Take a page from Taylor Tomasi Hill who managed to make her hot pink Dries Van Noten bra look rather chic and tomboyish by layering it over a borrowed from the boys’ button down shirt, throwing on an army fatigue green jacket, and adding an enormous muffler.


And the Winner is:

The most creative way to add some pizzazz to a classic camel coat: Take a lead from Samantha Angelo and throw it over the shoulders of a colorful serape striped vintage Todd Oldham pantsuit.



And the Winner is:


The most inspired use of fur on a runway: Thom Browne created a wide lapel woven plaid overcoat from white mink, astrakhan fur, and red, white and navy grosgrain, and showed it with red, white and navy melton trousers and a grey plaid melton jacket.


And the Winner is:

The best dressed show goer: Giovanna Battaglia, who looked weather appropriate and darn chic in her fabulous outerwear (which included Prada’s striped reefer from Spring Summer 2016).


And the Winner is:

The most effective way to cover up your neck, if it’s a part of your body you “feel bad about” (in the words of the late Nora Ephron): Wear a choker (the bigger the better), such as the ones seen at Rihanna’s Fenty X Puma Collaboration, and Rodarte, where they were as wide as belts.


And the Winner is:

The footwear most likely to result in a trip to the emergency room and a broken ankle: Marc Jacobs’ vertiginous platforms (even some of the models had a hard time staying upright).


And the Winner is:

 The collection which poses the biggest problem for closet challenged NY apartments: Marc Jacobs, with its voluminous over scaled pieces.


And the Winner is:

The most surprising show venue: Alexander Wang’s choice of the historic St. Bartholomew’s Church on Park Avenue.


And the Winner is:


The most inspired use of animal patterns on a runway: Francisco Costa’s lynx and skunk photo printed leather coats which were shown over matching silk shifts at Calvin Klein.


And the Winner is:

The strangest (okay, the most repulsive) print shown on a runway: Marc Jacobs’ black and white rats and cats print (maybe he was inspired by Conde Nast’s ‘rat’ infestation when they first moved into 1 World Trade?).


And the Winner is:

 The biggest disappointment: Peter Copping’s vision for Oscar de la Renta. Since being named as Creative Director of the label in October 2014, I have thought that his designs were perfectly nice, but by and large, not really memorable, and unfortunately, that doesn’t cut it these days.


And the Winner is:

The most feel-good, heartwarming moment on a runway: Naeem Khan partnered with the Make-A-Wish Foundation and granted cancer stricken 11 year old Trinity Faith Moran her wish of walking down the runway in one of his beautiful dresses.




- Marilyn Kirschner

(All Images Vogue.com except Delpozo which should be credited to Javier Tomás Biosca)

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