|Photo: Laurel Marcus|
It’s been a year and a half since his last runway show, but Ralph Rucci, who left the eponymous label he founded in 1994 (which goes on without him) has not exactly been idling the time away. He’s been quietly creating made-to-order for a loyal clientele who seeks out the meticulous attention to detail and superb craftsmanship that have come to define his work.
|Photo: Marilyn Kirschner|
|Photo: Factory PR|
RR331 is comprised of 23 looks, all in a monochromatic color palette of black. The collection¹s nuances are subtle and in the details of the fabrics. Rucci plays with a range of materials including: double-faced wool crepe, double-faced cashmere, taffeta, hammered satin, velvet and wool barathea to further embody the varying emotions and personas of the modern woman. Within the collection are rare, Russian Barguzin sable and mink coats. Rucci created these pieces by hand using a technique of looping and sewing pelts on top of one another, allowing the pieces to feel feminine yet raw.
|Photo: Laurel Marcus|
While we all know there is nothing at all simple about the thought process or excruciating workmanship that goes into to his designs, the overall effect was one of pared down simplicity and when Ralph applies that light touch, it is when he is at his best. All the better to see and appreciate the lines, the cut, and the silhouette of his beautiful dresses and superbly constructed jackets and coats, which were also worn by several guests including Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears, Deeda Blair and Martha Stewart. Others on hand: Linda Fargo, Etta Froi, Robin Givhan, Suzy Menkes, Steven Kolb, Fern Mallis, Ken Downing, Hamish Bowles, Patrick McDonald, Yaz Hernandez, Jean Shafiroff, Margaret Hayes, Jody Donohue, Ellen Saltzman, Marylou Luther, Cathy Horyn, Teri Agins, and Tim Blanks. When I asked Tim which collections he most loved, he immediately said, “Hood by Air”!
Photo: Laurel Marcus
By the way, not only is Ralph talented; he’s considerate. Did I forget to mention that one reason this venue was chosen, was because it was across the street from his good friend Narciso Rodriguez’s 8 p.m. show, thereby enabling people to literally walk across the street.
- Marilyn Kirschner