Monday, September 14, 2015

In the Market Report

P.S. (Public School), We Love You!

Public School white crepe Sachey long vest white crepe
embroidered Del blush pant
(Photos: Vogue.com)

If it seemed that Sunday morning’s Public School runway show, held at the Arc at Skylight at Moynihan Station, seemed buzzier than ever, there’s good reason. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, who head up the popular CFDA Award winning label, are set to unveil their vision for DKNY this Thursday at 3 p.m. at the Westfield World Trade Center West Gallery (in their double roles as creative directors for this line). Undoubtedly, the show is sure to be one of the season’s hot tickets and it will be interesting to see how they differentiate the two labels.


Off white chunky intarsia knit pullover off  white bonded Kara skirt

Donna Karan had once stated that she started DKNY in order to “create a brand that captured the very best of New York” and she wanted to “bring that great energy to the world.” From the get go, this appointment, when announced back in April, seemed like a marriage made in fashion heaven and had all the ear markings of a perfect fit (on paper at the very least). After all, the two young designers are committed (both born and raised) New Yorkers, and their aesthetic (streetwise, hip, happening, technological, sporty, athletic, and urban to the core, with a palette dominated by black, white, ivory, navy, and gray) could not be more in keeping with DKNY’s DNA. This was quite evident in yesterday morning’s 35 piece spring collection for men and women.


Off white bird embroidered leather bomber off white crepe
Sachey long vest light blue stripe Askalon

Working in their signature color palette (with the addition of light blue which showed up more often not as part of a graphic stripe), Dao-Yi and Maxwell put an emphasis on long, fluid shapes, athletic details, and layering. Although, there were some shorts and short skirts and dresses: it’s all about getting the proportion right.


Navy bonded Reema trench over off white  sheer cotton Jasper dress

There were some wonderful, slouchy trenches (very Donna Karan indeed), bonded coats, elongated vests, polo collared tops and dresses, chunky and graphic intarsia knits, and jumpsuits. Everything was shown with a flat white or black hiker or ankle strap sandal (this duo always shows grounded footwear: perfect for hitting the city pavement).  It looked pulled together yet fresh, effortless, easy, relaxed, and natural. This is the same thing I could say about the best dressed show attendees. But more on that later.





- Marilyn Kirschner


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