Anna Sui's Kozmik Rock Star Hits A Sour Note
|“I just love the way
the '60s rock stars put themselves together, |
because they were like dandies and peacocks. They really lived out their fantasies
- and dressed their fantasies.”- Anna Sui
|Inspiration? At Pamela's Store Themis in LA|
In fact, Pamela did have a clothing store in L.A. called Themis (Jim backed her in it) which she decorated with peacock feathers on the walls and ceiling and I'm pretty sure that these are the sort of clothes that she sold. (Although from all reports I've read, the boutique was almost never open). While I enjoy a good acid flashback (sartorially speaking of course) this one was a bit too literal and un-wearable for my taste. I suppose it's possible that those who weren't around the first time that these styles were popular would enjoy living the fantasy although I'm skeptical
|Joan Jett or Patti Smith?|
|Jacquard and Soutache go unisex|
There were a few menswear looks (if you could call them that?) as I don't know many men, even in the fashion or entertainment industry, who would choose to wear a crushed velvet apricot-hued palazzo pant and print jacket. One of the male models seemed to channel David Bowie in his Ziggy Stardust days, another one gave off the distinct Morrison vibe, others could be Mick, Keith, George in their younger days. I was surprised, as I've become aware of the issue, that there were no male or female models of color especially as Jimi Hendrix would have fit right in with this style esthetic. The female models all had that rocker chick or rocker guy's girlfriend look happening.
|George Harrison and Pattie Boyd or Keith Richards and Patti Hansen?|
In the audience I noticed Grace Coddington of Vogue, Suzy Menkes and lovable Bill Cunningham happily snapping away. Is there anyone who derives such joy from his job? He is always smiling when he's working and you certainly can't say that about too many people. Many in the crowd were wearing either Anna Sui designs from past collection or were just Boho-Chic. I had the pleasure of seeing Anna's Fall/Winter 2014 collection last February and liked it a lot better than this one. It was much more sophisticated with a sort of Orient Express opulence rather than a somewhat trashy glitter rock edge.
|Loving the Boots|
Another quote on Anna's Facebook page informed us that: "While preserving her signature rock-n-roll romanticism, we will see fresh retro references." Meanwhile, before Anna Sui showed her collection The New York Times observed a trend of three designers (Tommy Hilfiger, Zimmerman and Vera Wang) trying to recreate the flower child for a Spring/Summer 2015 Summer of Love. (link to article) It would seem that there are now four designers looking for that "fresh retro reference."
- Laurel Marcus
Photos: Raeanne Rubenstein/ShowMagazine 1970, Style.com and Anna Sui's Facebook page
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