Saturday, February 09, 2013

New York Fashion Week Notes

Neither Rain Nor Sleet Nor Snow...

Jason Wu black coat fur trim
(Photos: Style.com)

To say that Jason Wu is having his moment in the sun, and had a good year thus far, is an understatement. On the heels of what has to be an almost unfathomable honor bestowed upon him several weeks ago - the First Lady selected his red gown for the inaugural balls, after giving him the same honor 4 years ago - this young (30 year old) Taiwanese-Canadian fashion designer must certainly be pinching himself to make sure that he's not dreaming. Of course, he's been a fashion darling for some time now, and his shows are always highly anticipated and well attended.

Jason Wu long dress sheer top black sequined skirt

It was hardly surprising that the cream of fashion's crop turned out yesterday afternoon, to see what he has up his sleeves for fall 2013 (and perhaps get a glimpse at some of Michelle Obama's future wardrobe choices for the coming year). Exceedingly sophistocated, feminine, chic, fitted, tailored, and very dressed up, all at the same time, the collection was rendered primarily in black and white (crisp white shirt collars and white shirt dresses were beneath many of the pieces), with touches of mustard, red, and royal blue. As on other runways, outerwear really stood out: there were wonderful coats with fur trim (fur trimmed many of the pockets), and sporty anorak style parkas with massive fur hoods. The fabrics, which were gorgeous, were often used in interesting, unexpected combinations. It was very textural. See thru and sheer (lots of lace and chiffon), added lightness and drama, and feathers, always a Wu favorite, added whimsy.

Jason Wu red black on shoulder pleated chiffon dress

The collection certainly did have Michelle Obama written all over much of it, down to the belted waists: belts, narrow or wide, were shown on every outfit, for both day and evening, and in a few cases where there was no belt, the waist was still defined. I could definitely envision Mrs. Obama wearing many of the ensembles, though she would have to lengthen some of the ultra short skirts to hit at the knee. By the way, Jason's venue of choice was not lost on me. 583 Park Avenue, located between 63rd and 64th streets, had long been used by Oscar de la Renta until he decided to show his collections at his West 42nd Street headquarters. It is unapologetic elegant, soigne, and very grown up. It speaks of old money and the "Establishment". Jason has definitely arrived.

-Marilyn Kirschner

(Publisher's note: For the last 3 seasons, the above show and all others handled by KCD are off limits to lookonline.com. We have been effectively banned from everything and anything KCD handles. Why? In my opinion, for the simple reason I had the temerity to criticize the agency for their aggressive and heavy handed treatment of those they do not deem to be treated with respect. It seems to matter little to Ed Filopowski or Julie Mannion if it works for or against their clients' interests? There are many in the industry who feel the way I do about this agency, but they are afraid to speak out least they also become "uninvited" to those shows the agency is handling. Of course we have no fear of that any longer, so we believe that mean spirited and unprofessional behaviour should be pointed out. Too many in this industry confuse who they are with who they work for. Perhaps Ed and Julie also think that they, like the giants on Wall Street, are "too big to fail"?)


The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

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