Wednesday, September 14, 2011

New York Fashion Week Notes

Bits and Pieces by Marilyn Kirschner

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012 Collection
Photos: firstView.com
(click on images for larger views)

The shows are nearing an end, and there have been many themes which have played out over and over, sort of like fashion's version of Groundhog Day. It always happens, after a few shows, you begin to think (seen one, seen them all) in terms of trends. Among some of the more ubiquitous this season: the use of strong color (sunshine yellow is emerging as one of the favorites), graphic color blocking, asymmetry, the use of transparency, sports influences, shirtdressing, and  prints.


Narciso Rodriquez Spring 2012 Collection

The one runway show which seemingly touched upon all the above, (though it was devoid of any prints or patterns), was  Narciso Rodriguez, who always takes his craft to another step, exploring and pushing the boundaries along the way. Inspired by the work of Korean tattoo artist Kim Joon, the collection was quite ambitious, and daring.


Narciso Rodriquez Spring 2012 Collection

There were some amazing pieces (Narciso artfully pieced together fabric collage style, to create his own patterns). While sportswear and athletic influences are seen elsewhere, they were far more subtle and sophisticated on this runway. Athough subtle is not a word I would use to describe Narciso's often jarring use of strong color, (and that includes the hair, thanks to Dick Page for Shishedo). FYI, I had mentioned that in a season of shirtdresses, NR's artistic color spliced interpretations were standouts.


Vera Wang Spring 2012 Collection
Photos: firstview.com

Who else but Vera Wang could make active sportswear and athletic wear look so couture like; who else but Vera Wang could boast an eclectic front row with names as diverse as Serena Williams, Kim Kardashian, Beyonce, and Madeleine Albright. In a season of prints, who else but Vera Wang could conceive of what has to be the most inspired print of them all, her 'psychedelic 18th century French wallpaper print which was distorted to abstract effect; and who else but Vera Wang, could successfully combine outsized hoods, eyelet mesh, utility vests, cutout pockets, parachute drawstrings, sheer silk chiffon, drawstring waists, and peplums (sometimes all in one outfit), and have successful results. Speaking of the latter, peplums were used throughout the collection, and I didn't realize there were so many ways to use them.


Vera Wang Spring 2012 Collection

Vera is known for her fondness of mousey colors - shades of gray, brooding inks, and black. Perhaps the more surprising elements of her spring 2012 show, dubbed 'Alice in Wonderland', was her exploration of tailoring and transparency; the emphasis on active sports and utility shapes, collages of texture and details;  a reliance on optic whites and acid brights (which showed up as accents), and the use of soft pastel shades inspired by the iconic Laduree macaroons. In fact, there was not one piece in black on the entire runway; that is, until Vera took that traditional bow on stage, dressed in her signature black second skin jerseys (you didn't really think she was going to be dressed in hot pink - did you?).


J Crew Spring 2012 Collection
Photos: Randy Brooke

Yesterday morning J. Crew held its first presentation in conjunction with New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. Half womenswear and half menswear, it was shown installation style on great looking models, all of them right out of central casting.  Jenna Lyons, their famed head of design, got it right with her easy, relatable mix of ladylike, preppy, downtown, uptown, country and urban, crossing age lines and doing it at price points that are thankfully not insulting. The colors, silhouettes, and the styling were spot on, and the bags and shoes, the perfect exclamation point.


J Crew Spring 2012 Collection

Among the standouts were the denim workshirt and horizontally striped sequined skirt shown with a bright green clutch; the kelly green and navy color block sweater, kelly green narrow pants, and orange patent sandals; the bubble gum pink chiffon button down shirt and red wool pants; the khaki safai shirt paired with pink thin wool pants and accessorized with an orange patent loafer; and the ivory sequined tennis cardigan (a take off on Chanel), worn with a faded denim jean jacket, striped shirt, and khaki shorts.


J Crew Spring 2012 Collection

Disclaimer: I've been a huge fan of J. Crew for quite some time, and some of my favorite pieces date back 15 years or so. In fact, I hadn't even realized that yesterday, I was wearing an old pair of J.Crew black stretch velvet narrow pants with zippered hem (they are still going strong), until woman asked me if I would mind being photographed, and then asked what I was wearing.


Stepping Out with Oscar


Oscar de la Renta Spring 2012 Collection
Photos: firstView.com

Set in a raw, unfinished space, miles away from the haunts of his uptown ladies, Oscar de la Renta’s spring 2012 collection stripped away some of the establishment formality, resulting in a collection that was, at once, both younger and modern. Juxtaposed against the raw setting was the colorful gowns, suits and day dresses that his customers crave. This time around in addition to the ruffles, sequins and prints that the designer is known for, there were feathers, fringe and off beat colors. Case in point, a multi-color space dyed suit tied up with a chartreuse bow blouse.


Oscar de la Renta Spring 2012 Collection

De la Renta is in love with lace this season, offering up Chantilly and Battenberg styles, an of the moment fabric. Some of his best paired black and white, notably a black Chantilly embroidered lace gown with tulle-embroidered border and a white threadwork embroidered blazer with a contrasting skirt, a fresh take on the season’s tuxedo.


Oscar de la Renta Spring 2012 Collection

In addition to ladylike suits, woven throughout the collection were the signature pieces that the designer is known for. Chic sheaths, shifts, shirtdresses and gowns this time turned out in colorful florals, often with intricate needlework details. The piece de resistance was a silk faille gown in a soft daffodil embroidered with a field of poppies. The combination of florals along with the models’ hair dressed in Pre-Raphaelite style, evoked true innocence and youth.


Oscar de la Renta Spring 2012 Collection

Easy, breezy glamour was presented in scene stealing, sequined and embroidered shifts, chemises and trapezes, often embellished with ostrich feathers, offering his ladies a clear, simplified alternative to evening.

- Tricia Kenney 


The Daily Bet by Rhonda Erb

HTC Flyer

This season, busy editors have added one more item to their arsenal of high tech products. Tablets are popping up along the runways to record video, snap photos and take notes. The HTC Flyer is small enough (7") to fit easily in a tote bag, but it has premium features like 16GB of expandable memory, rear (5MP) and front (1.3MP) cameras and Android 2.3, HTC sense. Plus, HTC Scribe Technology and HTC Notes allow you to record your thoughts and even sketches and keep everything organized with ease.
Available at: http://www.bestbuy.com/ $499




2 comments:

  1. I would like to see more of this posts. I certainly love the sale at Bestbuy for the HTC. It's one of my favorite. Thanks for sharing this. I also shared this on Facebook.

    ReplyDelete
  2. The best tools we used throughout the week were our hands for scrunching and fingers for combing to create natural, textured looks.women models

    ReplyDelete