The palpable influence of Miuccia Prada continues to be a force to reckon with here on 7th Avenue (or should I say 6th Avenue - at least until next Wednesday). The ideas and aesthetic that are the heart and soul of Miuccia's collections -- routed in an eclectic, vintage, and highly individual sensibility -- have served as the single most influential vision, spawning countless re-interpretation on both sides of the Atlantic.
On some of the most highly respected runways, it is obvious that Miuccia is alive and well... and living in the tents. Though I happen to be a fan of the creative team behind Proenza Schouler, and they certainly have carved out a signature with their corset like tops. I was hit by how very 'Prada' it seemed in mood and porportion, not to mention their prints, and touches of eccentric arts and crafts as seen in the wood and bead trimmed pieces.
When I asked Joan Kaner what she thought of that collection and the season thus far, she quickly noted, "We only need ONE Prada".
On another note, though it was seemingly ignored at 7th on Sixth where business was as usual (and I agree that it's how we should all go on with our lives), it's not easy to forget that today marks the third anniversary of 9/11/01. So with that in mind, I must say that I found something very appealingly reassuring about Zang Toi's escapist, happy, innocent, upbeat, and unapologetically "old fashioned" runway show this morning based on the "Waspy looks of the rich and famous" which were inspired by the Round Hill Villas in Montego Bay, Jamaica. Ivana Trump, an avowed fan and client of Zang's, was front row center along with her much younger boyfriend, and this sums up his appeal. But while I could certainly imagine Ms. Trump wearing much of the collection, it spoke to a wider audience (just as long as they have a major bank account of course).
Following this was another highly appealing moment - Brazilian born Alexandre Herchcovitch's very first New York runway show. The designer who normally shows in Paris- but chose the Bryant Park Tents this time around - is known for his highly individual prints and patterns, and he certainly did not disappoint. The best looks made the most of his exquisite color and print sense, and the standout shapes were his shrunken flyway shirt jackets paired with elongated cuffed shorts, narrow gather skirts or little dresses, often sporting coordinating hoods. He extended the voluminous tent shaped flyway theme to a group of floaty above the knee length chiffon dresses as well. The finale, and my favorite group, reminded me of Thea Porter with its colorful patchwork melange.
Oh, and one more thing, the collection looked nothing like Prada....what a relief!
= Posted by Marilyn Kirschner