Friday, May 31, 2002

Lookonline Will Not be Able to Report on The 2002 CFDA Awards:

Unfortunately, due to a sudden illness of our editor, we will not be able to cover the CFDA Awards Monday night. But for our bloggers, you can see a special sneak preview of our latest editorial cartoon by Peter Paul Porges featuring New York Times fashion writer Cathy Horyn accepting her Eugenia Sheppard award from the CFDA.

Wednesday, May 29, 2002

Remembering Nancy White

Long before '"The Devil (or should I say, editors-in-chief) wore Prada", they wore white gloves and hats. Though I can't really claim to have known Nancy White very well- the image of the former editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar, who died on Saturday at the age of 85, is emblazoned in my memory. I had just been hired as a 'lowly' fashion assistant - or as she called it, a "glorified errand girl"- at Harpers Bazaar in 1971, when Nancy White was the editor in chief (her tenure spanned 1958 to 1971), and boy, was it a different era back then. She was a very 'scary', imposing figure, and even though she may not have been a fashion legend in the manner of Diana Vreeland, to me, she was still larger than life. In her obituary- which ran in today's New York Times, John Weitz called her "one of the grandes dames of her era...she brought taste, charm and a sense of proportion to the game." And though she was the last of a dying breed, who didn't feel pantsuits were right for her, she was modern enough to realize that, if worn properly accessorized, they would be fine for staff members. In the obituary, it was mentioned that when she first got the top job at Bazaar in 1958, she wrote down words that she hoped would describe the magazine: authority, awareness, wit, spirit, surprise, curiosity, intelligence, timing, food for thought, vitality, balance, and youth." More than 40 years later, these still hold up.

Tuesday, May 28, 2002

Getting Crossed:

Candy Pratts Price, that queen of shopping excess for Style.com, is at it again. This month her shopping column is promoting her latest "must have items of the moment". How about a tote bag with a cross on it "perfect for that extra bit of edge" says Candy for only $2090.00. Or for the "concerned" citizen The ultimate gothic cross-- it's airy, it's lacy.” and it is only $195. At that price, buyers won't feel too guilty wearing this sacred symbol of Christianity while forgetting those who suffer and die of hunger in the world. You have to give the Candy credit, she's got great timing as well as bad taste!
Copycats:

The subject of fashion designers copying continues to make news. In The New York Times Magazine this past Sunday, Lynn Hirschberg interviewed Oscar de la Renta ('The Substance of Style') on the occasion of his new book, and spoke with him about the meaning of style and copycats. When Hirshberg mentioned to the dapper and influential designer, that "a dress from your last collection is not all that different from one you did in the 60's or 70's" and asked if he ever thinks, "I can't do the macrame belt of flamenco skirt I did in 1969", de la Renta answered that he has "zero memory. I didn't keep any archives of the clothes from the 60's and 70's, and I have forgotten all those dresses. Besides, I hate retro." Funny, his beautiful and opulent fall/winter 2002 collection, was so 'retro' in its peasant references and mood, that one well respected fashion journalist even commented that Oscar should have blatantly called it "an homage to Yves St. Laurent". He may well have amnesia for his own past archives, but it seems he has good memory for the archives of others.

Friday, May 24, 2002

Anyone remotely involved with fashion must be mourning the untimely loss of Kevyn Aucoin. Although my work involves wardrobe, I always managed to wander into the makeup area when I knew Kevyn there. With the advent of his own makeup line, I celebrated the chance to curl my lashes like Kevyn does! I know a 12-year old who has both his books. And I have to believe that Kevyn was partially responsible for the physical and political transformation of Hilary Clinton. Kevyn may be gone, but I bet he's putting a prettier face on Heaven.
Barbara Berman
Correction: Jan Reeder, Doyle New York's Couture Specialist told me that the highest price at the recent Couture, Accessories, and Textile Auction was not $9,000, but rather $11,750, which went for a pair of late 18th century brocade shoes with clogs. They were very rare, in mint condition, with a London label, and although Ms. Reeder does not know if this is a record price paid for a pair of 18th century shoes....it is "up there". In addition, she claimed to be "very pleased with the overall sale which reached close to the high estimates."
Regarding "Designer" and Diamond Crucifixes:

I asked a fashion friend (whose late uncle had been a bishop in Brooklyn) if she considered the Tiffany diamond cross suspended from a platinum chain she was wearing a fashion accessory or a sign of her devotion, and she said both. From what I gather, the diamond cross on a choker chain is in style partly because the woman who wears it feels it is once again OK to show her devotion to her faith, and this is a chic way to do it. I don't claim to know what Tom Ford's story is, but that's what the diamond crucifix wearing women tell me. Times are tough and maybe for some women and men, these crucifixes are comforting talismans. We shouldn't be too hard on the people who embrace this fashion statement. Chic and religious statements have been with us since before Babylon.
- by Christine Suppes
Fashion East/West:

A three-part series exploring the impact of Japanese designers on the international fashion arena, past and present. Co-sponsored by Shiseido Co., Ltd. and the Fashion Group International, Inc.

Japan in Paris: Pioneers of Fashion Now & Then
Thursday, June 6 6:30 pm
Keiko Hirayama, Shiseido Fashion Director and former Editor-in-Chief of Hanatsubaki, Shiseido's legendary avant-garde magazine best-known for its coverage of cutting-edge designers, artists and photographers from around the world, discusses the little-known origins of the Tokyo fashion world and highlights the work of pioneering Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo and their lasting influence and inspiration in the international fashion arena.

Tickets: $10, Japan Society & Fashion Group International (FGI) members & seniors $8, students $5.

Fusion Fashion: Hanae Mori Style
Thursday, June 13 6:30 pm
No one has bridged the cultural divide in fashion with more skill and subtlety than Hanae Mori, whose work continues to express an ongoing dialogue between Japanese tradition and French couture. Since first opening an haute couture showroom in Paris in 1977, she has actively pursued the interaction of East-West aesthetic values through her collections and costume design for operas and musicals. Mme. Mori discusses her pioneering work with Andrew Bolton, Associate Curator, The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Followed by a reception and booksigning. Co-sponsored by Kodansha America, Inc.

Tickets: $10, Japan Society & Fashion Group International (FGI) members & seniors $8, students $5.

Tokyo Fashion Forward
Wednesday, June 19 6:30 pm
Hiroaki Ohya is considered one of the most exciting and influential young fashion designers in Japan today. Hailed as "pure genius" by Issey Miyake, his designs reflect a love for both Japanese pop culture and high technology. In this discussion he is joined by Kosuke Tsumura, the designer of the hot label Final Home, known for his interactive designs and survival wear for the urban nomad and equally praised as an innovative tour de force. Moderated by Anne Slowey, Fashion News Director, Elle magazine. Followed by a party featuring a multimedia fashion show and live music. Co-organized by Foundation World, Inc.

Tickets: $10, Japan Society & Fashion Group International (FGI) members & seniors $8, students $5.
Unless noted otherwise, all programs are held at Japan Society, 333 East 47th Street, New York, NY 10017 (between First and Second Avenues) Visit www.japansociety.org or call the Japan Society box office, Monday through Friday, 10 am to 4:45 pm at (212) 752-3015.


Deignan/Mann Dissolving Partnership:

(New York May 16th Press Release) Joan Deignan and Linda Mann, partners in the New York fashion public relations agency Deignan/Mann, announced yesterday that they are dissolving their five-year partnership on May 31, to pursue new opportunities.

Joan Deignan will continue to work in the fashion, beauty, special events and home arenas, with special focus on the Bob Mackie brand, which includes the designer's made-to-order collection, frangrance, home furnishings and future growth opportunities. Deignan will also consult with Andrea Jovine and her home design company and will continue her work with NABCO.

Linda Mann is starting a new marketing communications agency, Mann Media Inc, with an emphasis on fashion, beauty, health, home, publishing and lifestyle public relations as well as special events, The company also will add new services, including media training, website design and graphics, as well as logo and brand-image development. Jooing Mann in this new venture will be long time colleague Antoinette Fitapelli as senior vice president ands Elizabeth Mann as creative director. Their new offices will be located at 2 Horatio Street in Greenwich Village.

Mann Media's client roster will include Loemann, Swatch, Body Central Wellness Spa, Aslavital Beauty Center, and the epMpire Design Studio, with pending new accounts to be announced. The business officially launches June 1.

The partners jointly stated, " We've had a great five years and have enjoyed working together, but business philosophies and personal priorities change and, with our current lease up, we felt it was a good time to follow our personal initiatives." For more information contact Joan Deignan 633-1400 ext 106; Linda Mann 633-1400, ext 114.

Thursday, May 23, 2002

Catholic Church Critical of the Use of Crucifixes as Fashion Accessories:

A lookonline.com editorial on March 4th calling Tom Ford's use of crucifixes as fashion accessories in bad taste has found some unexpected support. At the time a number of people in our industry e-mailed us calling us the "fashion police" and saying we knew nothing about fashion. Here is our original item posted on our blog referencing a Vogue.co.uk review of the Gucci Show (dated March 4th) reporting on the wearing of crucifixes by the models at the show:

[3/4/2002 5:08:27 PM | Ernest Schmatolla] "From British Vogue online: "Tom Ford abandoned his recent foray into the realm of hippy chick to return to the path of the sexual predator for autumn/winter 2002. Black chokers an crucifixes hung where plunging necklines bared alabaster throats and voluminous capes tied across white chests, promoting a Gothic vision for next season." Am I the only one to find the use of crucifixes as fashion accessories in bad taste? If nothing is sacred, does that mean we must necessarily profane everything?...

Comes the following report today on Vogue.co.uk website...

Crossing the Pope

"NAOMI CAMPBELL, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Jennifer Aniston have incurred the wrath of the Catholic church by vulgarising the cross. The Fides organisation, a charity group based at the Vatican which has been described by Pope John Paul II as his "right arm", yesterday slammed celebrities who wore jewelled crucifixes as a symbol of their wealth, rather than choosing simple crosses which to Christians traditionally represent self-sacrifice. "There is a spreading fashion of wearing crosses decorated with diamonds and other precious stones," the group said in a statement. "Personalities of the world of entertainment are making it the mania of the moment. Crosses glitter around the necks of soubrettes, TV personalities and leading models and actresses. Jennifer Aniston wears a cross of precious stones. Model Naomi Campbell has an enormous collection of jewel-studded crosses, while Catherine Zeta-Jones wears a gold and diamond one. Is it relevant to the gospel to spend thousands of pounds to buy a sacred symbol of Christianity and then, perhaps in an unchristian manner, forget those that suffer and die of hunger in the world?" Naomi was singled out for criticism, after giving evidence at a libel case against The Mirror in February wearing a large diamond crucifix."
(May 23 2002, AM)
Doyle New York Couture Auction Results:

There were no records set at yesterday's Doyle New York's Couture, Textiles, and Accessories Auction. The highest price - $9,000 - went for a Fortuny stenciled garnet velvet jacket, and a Louis Vuitton Travel Desk that were both from the 1930's. But the auction did not lack in interest or drama. The first 62 lots were items from the estate of Carrie Donovan, and they generated a lot of competitive bidding. Not only did most of the items, including paintings, lithographs, fashion portraits, trademark resized glass frames, bold accessories and her amazing collection of Chanel pearls, go for prices that far exceeded catalogue estimates, but a pair of CFDA awards that had been awarded to the legendary fashion editor, sold for $1600 (it was estimated in the catalogue at between $300- $500). I don't know who the buyer was (someone from the CFDA???) but it's obvious that he came just for this lot - he left Doyle's right after placing the winning bid. And by the way, it seems that many who attended,including a former assistant and good friend of Carrie's, came just for her portion....many departed as soon as the last bid from estate had ended.

Spring 2003 RTW Show Dates Set for Next Season:

Vogue.co.uk also reported today click here to read full story that London will open next season's ready-to-wear collections, The changes to the schedule will also see New York reduce its running time by two days, so that Milan and Paris can go ahead as planned. The London shows, which return to the head of the schedule after four years of taking second place to New York, will now run from September 12-17, with New York following from September 18-23 ( too avoid clashes with the city's September 11 memorial events) which means the American shows will overlap with Milan Fashion Week by one day. "On behalf of the many designers showing both men's and women's collections in New York and with regard to these extraordinary times and difficult circumstances, we have agreed to reduce Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week from its usual eight days to six, necessitating one day of shows coinciding with Milan," said Fern Mallis, executive director of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week who was quoted in the Vogue.co.uk article.

Tuesday, May 21, 2002

Dennis Basso Fur Show at the Pierre Hotel:



Yesterday was payback time for furrier Dennis Basso. The designer is known for his yearly Pierre Hotel extravangzas. In addition to a parade of his signature customer-pleasing chinchillas, broadtails, Russian Sables, minks, and ermines he has traditionally ended the event with a celebrity model (last year, for example, he had Joan Collins swathed in sable). What to do for an encore? The smart and savvy Basso, who rubs elbows with many of the city's rich and famous (or should I say infamous....Denise Rich, Jocelyn Wildenstein, and Sydney Biddle Barrow are all customers, and were all present at Monday's show) made the white fur coat that Liza Minnelli wore to her highly publicized theatrical wedding. He actually nabbed the legendary singer to don a white lynx coat (see photo above) for his finale this time. Quite obviously, the wedding fur was a 'gift', and Minnelli was just reciprocating the gesture.

Needless to say, the Pierre was mobbed, with many in attendance having to wait for seats. Of course, Liza did not actually sing (what do you expect for a freebee?) but she did put on a little show, walking down the runway to the strains of her taped "New York, New York". Oh, and by the way, there was more botox and collagen at the Pierre than furs. I started to feel as if I was the only one present who had not yet submitted to any plastic surgery.


Jessica Della Femina: From Riches To Rags To Rehab?

We just received in the mail a 23 page 4 color press kit from the latest fashion "design prodigy" Jessie Della Femina. Mother Judy Licht of Metro TV's Full Frontal Fashion and father ad man Jerry Della Femina appear anxious for their 16 year old daughter to keep up with the likes of Richie Rich, Paris and Nicky Hilton. They are pulling out all the stops to buy their daughter fame and fortune as a fashion designer. Her parents are giving new meaning to the old adage that for the rich and their children "more is never enough".

In the press kit there are press clips from WWD, The New York Times Sunday Style Section. Self Magazine, Cosmo Girl, Gotham, The Daily News among others all singing the praises of this 16 year old "child genius". Our favorite quote is from an article in Forbes by Melanie Wells who said "pushing aside, in the women's departments, some well known designers such as Helmut Lang and Versace to make way for up-and-comers like...16 year old Jessie Della Femina (daughter of the ad man).

Sure, we can just bet Lang & Versace are shaking in their boots! After all "Jesse is a full time student at the academically challenged Spence School in Manhattan where she is on the basketball team and acts as features editor of its newspaper. And last summer she had an editorial internship at Gotham Magazine and worked as a camp counselor" (Did she do both at the same time?). What more work experience does a girl need? I bet Jessie can even whistle and chew gum at the same time.

Maybe we are just hopeless idealists. But we think it would be far more impressive if Jessie had planned on joining the Peace Corp for a couple of years or worked part time for Save the Children. What ever happened to the "noble obligation". Her parents are selling their daughter - however willingly - as so much soap. Making their daughter a metaphor for their own lives. It is so disgusting. At least that is our opinion anyway!




Vintage Collector's Heaven: Vicki Haberman

I paid a visit to Vicki Haberman, one of my favorite vintage dealers, who I had already mentioned, is hosting a 'home show' at her lovely Park Avenue apartment. A well known 'fixture' on the New York vintage scene, she has been in business for just a year and a half. Vicki has a terrific eye, and great taste, claiming to specialize in "elegant" 60's and 70's clothing, handbags, costume jewelry and accessories, to which I can attest. I always find something I want, and my recent stop was no exception. Among her accessories were many Chanel items, including a charm bracelet...and we all know how 'in' charm bracelets are these days. But the charm bracelet I really adored was a chunky Isabel Canovas from Paris...at $625 it is a 'forever' collectible.

I also loved her 60's oversized flower pin ($225), a French green feather, glass bead, and metallic fantasy necklace ($325), as well as two fabulous unsigned French pieces that can literally light up a room all by themselves: a chunky necklace ($400), and a large half moon pin ($275).

Vicki has a large selection of dresses, suits, and coats, many bearing designer labels (Bill Blass, Yves St. Laurent, Pucci, Calvin Klein, etc.) but it is her coats that really stand out (I, like Vicki, am a coat person, a true believer that great coats are one of the most important wardrobe necessities. Among her day and evening coats that are modern, chic, and timeless, are a red wool Calvin Klein fitted coat from the 60's, an unlabeled tan cotton back belted pea jacket with gold dome buttons that looks like something that could have stepped off a Marc Jacobs runway, and a green/purple/white plaid Bill Blass for Maurice Rentner from the 60's. The color and great shape are fantastic! But perhaps my favorite piece, is the one of a kind Miss Dior dark green feather jacket (circa 1967). This is truly the kind of item that would always be a welcome addition to your closet, and though the price tag is hefty ($3000), it is one of those great pieces that you would have and enjoy forever (I would throw it over jeans or an evening dress)

The sale runs through Friday, May 24th, though Vicki said she may extend it if need be. You can call her to schedule an appointment at 212-452-0787

Friday, May 17, 2002

Reception for David Downton & Supermodel Erin O'Connor at Rootstein Mannequins



It was quite a fun evening last night at Rootstein Mannequins, 205 West 19th Street, tel 645-2020. This cocktail reception was for the opening of a featured exhibit (Kevin Arpino is the creative director at Rootstein) of British illustrator's David Downton sighed sketches of Erin O'Conner and the 50 Mannequins on display that were molded and created using Erin O'Connor as the model. And what a mix of people who showed up! Everyone from Fern Mallis to the well known English designer Alistair Blair to fellow supermodels Jade Parfait, Karen Elson, Stella Tennant (many months pregnant) and Maggie Rizer. Indeed, it was a thrill for us to introduce Maggie (and old friend of lookonline) to another legendary model who was there (with her daughter) Diane DeWitt. They had never met face to face, and it was nice to see them finally saying hello to each other.

We have a 6 minute streaming video interview with supermodel Erin O'Conner conducted at the event by our editor Marilyn Kirschner. If you have the Real Player installed on your computer click to play the 56K version or here to play the high speed version. We must mention just how well this event was run. A great job was done by Branstetter Communications and Lisa (number 2) Silhanek who also helped manage the event. It really was a great party!

Death of Kevyn Aucoin

Anyone remotely involved with fashion must be mourning the untimely loss of Kevyn Aucoin. Although my work involves wardrobe, I always managed to wander into the makeup area when I knew Kevyn there. With the advent of his own makeup line, I celebrated the chance to curl my lashes like Kevyn does! I know a 12-year old who has both his books. And I have to believe that Kevyn was partially responsible for the physical and political transformation of Hilary Clinton. Kevyn may be gone, but I bet he's putting a prettier face on Heaven. [5/14/2002 8:23:45 AM | barbara berman]

Thursday, May 16, 2002

Chanel Launches Flagship Jewelry Store on Madison Avenue



Chanel celebrated the 70th anniversary of Mademoiselle Chanel's first diamond exhibition by launching last night their new 1,600 square foot fine jewelry flagship at 733 Madison Avenue (64th street). The Peter Marino designed space captures the mood and spirit of Coco Chanel's rue Cambon apartment...needless to say, there is lots of black, gold, and white. It was so crowded, that it was almost hard to see the exhibition of jewelry that was. of course, the main event...but someone the champagne sipping crowd (including socialites like Helen Lee Schifter and Dr. Lisa Airan, fashion heavyweights like Pat Field, Anne McNally, Vanessa Von Bismarck, and furrier Giles Mendel) managed.

I almost walked out without knowing that tucked away in a side room, was the piece du resistance....an almost all dark room...the unveiling of famed light and design artist Ingo Maurer's exhibition, dedicated to diamonds and light. Mr. Maurer focused on the Comet and the Star, 'signature Chanel themes', and utilized shapes, colors, and movement to 'enhance the sparkle of the diamond'. It certainly was dramatic. Well, even if you can't necessarily afford the hefty pricetags that accompany the jewels, just walking into the new boutique will provide you with a 'lift.' You can always dream, no?

See high resolution photos:

Chanel fancy yellow diamond camelia brooch set in 18K gold ( image at top)
Chanel camelia watch 18K white gold & diamonds - $38,000
Chanel 'Trefle' rings - left $4000 right $3300.

Tuesday, May 14, 2002

Lookonline Editor-in-Chief Marilyn Kirschner's Conversation with Harold Koda

I attended the press preview of the 'Adrian: American Glamour' exhibit, and had a chance to chat with Harold Koda, the curator of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I asked this expert what he felt was the most interesting or surprising aspect of the Adrian exhibit. He said that since most people know Adrian as someone who created rather theatrical designs for Hollywood, it was the fact that this exhibit - guest curated by Jane Trapnell Marino (the wife of Peter Marino) was a testimony to his "showstopping looks for real people" the fact that he could indeed create "real glamour for real people", which was evidenced by his impeccably tailored skirtsuits. Koda also noted his ability to create "glamour without nudity" as illustrated by his fabulous, distinctive, elegant, yet covered up gowns. When I asked Mr. Koda if he had one or two "favorites"he did not hesitate to list them: a black suit trimmed with coral wool, and his 'Roam Stallion' red and black gown which features the design of a horse painted on ( click here for picture) Mr. Koda also explained that Adrian, who was known for his spare, graphic designs, was most influenced by his artistic background, and he viewed the body "as a three dimensional canvas whose main function was for pictorial representation." Not only were many of the clothes on exhibit timeless in their deceivingly simplistic elegance, many of the suits, and one coat in particular, could easily grace any of the 'best dressed' list today. Now, that's what I call enduring style.
Exhibition at the Metropolitan Musuem of Art:
Adrian: American Glamour

May 14, 2002–August 18, 2002
The Costume Institute, ground floor



This is one exhibition that is not to be missed! "Gilbert Adrian was one of the most quintessentially American of 20th-century designers as well as a Hollywood costumer of great renown, who dressed Greta Garbo, Norma Shearer, Katharine Hepburn, and Joan Crawford for the screen to memorable effect. His fashion designs, no less dramatic, united a midcentury modernist sensibility with an extraordinarily engineered technique that continues to inspire designers to this day. This retrospective will depict both aspects of his career. Adrian’s sketches and photographs of the period will accompany his costumes for MGM as well as the most important examples of his fashion work" - from Met press release.

Monday, May 13, 2002

This has been a busy time for the vintage business....in addition to everything else going on around town, Cesar Padilla and Radford Brown are holding a sale at their fab shop- Cherry, 185 Orchard Street, to commemorate their 5th anniversary. Their selection is always terrific, and their list of customers includes many with boldface names. The sale begins on Thursday, May 16th and goes through Sunday, May 19th. Women's clothing, bags, belts, and shoes will be 50% off- except those items in the display case. This is a great chance to supplement your wardrobe with the distinctive designs that have inspired fashion designers for decades.

Sunday, May 12, 2002

Doyle New York Auction of Important Couture, Costume Jewelry and Accessories featuring property from the Estate of Carrie Donovan:



AUCTION: WEDNESDAY, MAY 22 AT 10AM

From a Doyle New York Press Release: Fashion designers, Hollywood celebrities, museum curators and prominent social figures will gather at Doyle New York when two centuries of fashion history go on the auction block on Wednesday, May 22 at 10am. The public is invited to the exhibition on view from Saturday, May 18 through Monday, May 20. Doyle is located at 175 East 87th Street in Manhattan.


The opulent selection of gowns by the world's most legendary couturiers will be complemented by a luxurious array of important costume jewelry by Chanel and Miriam Haskell, handbags by Hermès and Gucci, and trunks by Louis Vuitton, as well as scarves, accessories and a panoply of textiles from around the world. A special section of the auction, lots 1-62, will be devoted to property from the estate of Fashion Editor Carrie Donovan. Highlights of this section include two whimsical caricature drawings of Ms. Donovan by Al Hirschfeld.

The auction offers the opportunity to bid on an unusual number of fashion rarities. Among these are a large group of exquisite American Empire period gowns including a rare pelisse, a pair of late 18th century silk brocade shoes with clogs, a three peice knit accessory ensemble, circa 1930, by Chanel, and a colorful 1979 silk-screened blouse by Contemporary artist Roy Lichtenstein. Further rare material is a group of 27 letters hand written in French in the 1930s and '40s by Mariano Fortuny, probably to the painter Rene Piot. Of interest to film enthusiasts will be an opulent beaded dress, circa 1926, from the wardrobe of the great silent film star Theda Bara, and the sensational fringed beaded gown worn by Winona Ryder at the 1994 Academy Awards ceremony. Lovers of the color red will delight in an array of brilliant pieces by designers such as Scassi, Trigere, Halston, Dior and Montana. Other highlights will be an evening gown by Adrian printed with lambs frolicking in a fenced-in meadow, and a striking 1917 military-style velvet and fur-trimmed evening coat of blue silk designed by Paul Poiret.

INFORMATION AND CATALOGUES:
Bidders my contact Jan Reeder or Linda Donahue at (212) 427-4141 ext. 208 or email couture@DoyleNewYork.com. To order a printed catalogue, please call Subscriptions (212) 427-4141, ext. 257, or email subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com. The free Internet version of the auction catalogue will be available prior to the sale in the "Catalogues" section on the Doylenewyork.com website.


MEDIA CONTACT:
Louis LeB. Webre, Vice President, Marketing and Media,
212-427-4141, ext 232 or email louis@DoyleNewYork.com .
Images and interviews are available upon request.

Thursday, May 09, 2002

It Makes Us Proud:

Jean-Pierre Radley or "JP" as he is known to everybody, son of the late fashion designer Pauline Trigere, came up to us at the Citymeals-On-Wheels event Monday night to personally thank us for our editorial on the shabby treatment given his mother by John Fairchild and his publications. Of course there is more to this story than is publicly known, but we are already being threatened by one lawyer at the New York Times (see 5/7/2002 entry) and that is more than enough for now! Below is our item first posted on February 15th:(We have a Real player format video report from the event: Click to view 56K Video.

"Fairchild Publications (WWD) are such hypocrites when it comes to Pauline Trigere! They speak well of the dead, but least anybody forgets, for years and years WWD completely ignored Trigere. Such pettiness by publisher John Fairchild for some perceived slight extended to his editors refusing to attend any of Pauline's shows and they would not even mention her name in their publications. Finally, around 1990, Pauline wrote and published an open letter in the New York Times addressed "Dear John" to Fairchild stating that all should be forgiven. What may have irritated Fairchild even more was Pauline's outspoken support for fellow designer Geoffrey Beene who WWD had another ongoing feud with for years. So petty was WWD, if they had to mention Beene at all, they would not even use his real name. Imagine two of our greatest American designers being blacklisted because they would not kiss John Fairchild's a*s. It was only in the last couple of years would WWD "bury the hatchet" with both Trigere & Beene. It may have finally became clear even to WWD (or maybe their new owner's Conde Nast) that such blatant arrogance on their part was damaging their own publication's creditability thus negatively effecting their almighty bottom line."

Wednesday, May 08, 2002



One of our past favorites: "They'll Have What I am Having"

New Editorial Cartoons Are Coming:

A new series of editorial cartoons is set to begin. We have a famous new cartoonist who worked many years with Mad Magazine. The first of his series will online June 3rd just in time for the CFDA awards.

Tuesday, May 07, 2002

Editor/Diva Amy Spindler Proves To Be More Than A Little Thin Skinned!

Just less than week after our April 28th blog item "Bad Girls or Just Bad Taste" (see lower down on this blog) critical of Amy Spindler's editorial on message t-shirts called 'What's Your Sign" in which we stated our opinion that she was walking a thin line between cutting edge fashion editorial and child pornography, we heard from her lawyer - that is in a letter from the New York Times Assistant General Counsel George Freeman.

Amy claims that she have been receiving our newsletter without ever subscribing to it! God the horror of it! She was, in fact, added to our e-mailing list over a year ago after we e-mailed a complaint to her about our 'What's Black & White and Available All Over?' market report appearing, in our opinion, to have been used for more than just the basis of a NY Times Magazine article of almost the same name. After a most rude e-mail response by her to our complaint we kept her on our list. We have no record of her ever requesting to be deleted from our mailing lists. Indeed she has been receiving our newsletters and updates and never once in the last few months (at least) has she requested or simply used the link provided to unsubscribe. Only days after we wrote the article did we then hear not from her, she must have been too busy or something, but rather the NY Times lawyer!

Of course this is not the first time on this blog readers have heard the word "harassment" used as a defense when it comes to someone who hears or receives some critical comment about their work and does not like it and is unwilling or unable to address the issue. In fact the lawyer even referred to our reports "adorned with uncomplimentary comments about her" in his letter. Amy is another one who confuses who she is with who she works for. We are critical of her work as editor of the The New York Times Sunday Magazine Fashion section and care less than nothing about her personally.

For the record there are those who think that Amy Spindler is doing a lousy job as Style Editor of the Sunday New York Times Magazine. I am among them and will continue to criticize her work when warranted and remain convinced that she should be canned. We are not going to be threatened by The New York Times or their lawyers when it come to the right to express our opinion about one of their editor's professional judgement or quality of their work.

Although many in the industry agree with us privately few are willing to say so publicly. They are afraid of what might happen. On the other hand, we have no such fears. So we have removed Amy from our mailing lists, but our log files indicate daily accesses from the nytimes.com domain so we are pretty sure she is still reading us. So much for freedom of the press Amy! And another reason why we think it is time for Amy to move on to another work experience.
Is Cathy Horyn Out To Prove Who She Can Make Or Break?

Well, you certainly can't say that Cathy Horyn is not controversial. In the time that she has been the fashion critic at the New York Times, she has made a name for herself with her acerbic wit and observations (for which she is receiving, though again- controversially, the CFDA award for fashion journalism at the June 3rd ceremony). But it seems, she delights in surprising us with her subjects and opinions. Her latest article, "One Day on Welfare, the Next He's Showing in Paris") about the designer Ralph Rucci, seemed to be a further stab at Nicolas Ghesquiere, if you think about it. In fact, the two designers couldn't be more dissimilar. Nicolas seems to be all about hype, celebrity, publicity, and fanfare, while Ralph seems almost like a best kept secret. Nicolas is clearly an 'editor's favorite '- worn (or should I say, borrowed) by the front row contingent, and featured on countless pages of the fashion glossies, whereas I can't say I remember the last time an editor made a grand entrance in one of Ralph's designs, nor can I pinpoint the last editorial he had in either Vogue or Harper's Bazaar (or if he ever even had that 'honor'). It seems Cathy basks in disagreeing with celebrity fashion editors (remember when she ruffled Anna's feathers with her negative take on a past New York fashion week?). Though Ralph is apparently not designing the dress Cathy will wear when she picks up her CFDA award dress (she is wearing vintage Blass), can we expect Ralph to be seated at Cathy's table?
Video Coverage of Eighteenth Annual Fashion/Beauty Benefit for Citymeals-On-Wheels

Our 11 minute special video report in Real Player format: 56K or ISDN of last night's event at Martini's Restaurant is now on-line. We have interviews with Diane Von Furstenberg and Lesley Jane Seymour in addition to a special moving tribute to Pauline Trigere by her son 'JP'. Please note you must have the Real Player installed on your computer to access these video reports.

Thursday, May 02, 2002

They say it never rains on the Frederick Law Olsmsted Awards Luncheon, held at the magnificent Central Park Conservancy....and it seems God smiled on the 1140 women in attendance this time as well. The 20th annual luncheon, which raised approximately 2 million dollars, according to Anne Hagan, Public Relations Manager of the Conservancy, took place on one of the few absolutely gorgeous, spring like days of the year. In addition to being a fundraiser, this anticipated event has also become a fashion show of major proportions, and "a milliner's paradise with stylish hats taking center stage" according to Ms. Hagan. Lets face it, fashionable New Yorkers don't generally wear over the top, fantastic hats (other than perhaps, on Easter Sunday), prompting many to refer to this luncheon as New York's answer to Ascot. In addition to designer suits in black, white, navy, and shades of pink...and spring coats decorated with flowers (perfect with the beautiful floral landscaping), almost every woman chose to wear some kind of hat...often large brimmed, covered with flowers or fanciful feathers. In light of all the unrelentless bad news these days, it is hard to imagine a more escapist, joyful way to spend a few hours...and all for a good cause (don't all of us New Yorkers love our park even more these days?)

Wednesday, May 01, 2002

Fashion Website Ontone.com Closes Down

Ontone was established to promote new young designers. We received the following e-mail from the e-zine's publisher: "First, we would like to thank you for your support for the 2 years that Ontone.com has been online. This email is to inform you that we are going to refocus on our concept and redesign our site. The Ontone web site will be down for a few months and will be relaunching some time in November of this year. Once again we thank you for your support this far, and we look forward to continue bringing you news and information in November."